设计学视域下福寿三多纹特征及工艺研究:以缉珠瓜果簪为例

A Design Study of the "Fushou Sanduo" Pattern and Its Craftsmanship: The Case of Beadwork Hairpin with Melon and Fruit Motifs

  • 摘要: 福寿三多纹作为中国传统吉祥纹样,主要由石榴、寿桃、佛手三种图案组合,分别隐喻“多子”“多寿”“多福”的美好祝愿,其造型主要表现为三种图案与缠枝纹相连、并蒂相连及分别装饰于同一器物三种典型范式。针对一套由英国回流的缉珠瓜果簪(现存“寿桃簪”和“佛手簪”),本研究依据福寿三多纹的构成纹样,推测此系列应包含一支“石榴簪”。基于此,从设计学视域角度出发,对现存缉珠瓜果簪的造型、材料、色彩和工艺进行分析,并综合运用缉珠、(仿)点翠、掐丝工艺及塑料珠、珍珠、染色鹅毛等材料,完成了缺失“石榴簪”的模拟设计与制作,进一步探索了三多纹、缉珠和点翠工艺在现代首饰中转化应用的可行性,为艺术设计赋能,为考古学与传统工艺研究提供了一种新的研究方法。

     

    Abstract: The "Fushou Sanduo" pattern is a traditional Chinese auspicious motif composed of pomegranate, peach, and bergamot, symbolizing the blessings of progeny, longevity, and fortune, respectively in Chinese auspicious art. Its formal composition is characterized by three typical paradigms: (1)the three motifs are interconnected with entwining branches; (2)the three motifs are conjoined at the base or stem; (3)the three motifs are independently distributed on the same object. This study focused on a set of beadwork hairpins with melon and fruit motifs (currently comprising a peach hairpin and a bergamot hairpin) repatriated from the United Kingdom. Based on the canonical composition of the "Fushou Sanduo" pattern, it is deduced that the original set must have included a pomegranate hairpin. The form, materials, colour, and craftsmanship of the existing hairpins were analyzed from a design studies perspective, and a simulative replica of the missing pomegranate hairpin was designed and fabricated using seed pearl embroidery, imitation kingfisher feather inlay, and filigree techniques, along with materials including plastic beads, pearls, and dyed goose feathers. Furthermore, this study explored the potential of adapting and applying the "Fushou Sanduo" pattern, seed pearl embroidery, and kingfisher feather inlay techniques in contemporary jewelry design, which may contribute to the development of innovative interdisciplinary methodology for archaelogy and traditional craft.

     

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