Technological Evolution and Value Enhancement in Chinese Gold Jewelry Craftsmanship
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摘要:
伴随着我国社会经济的快速发展，珠宝消费市场呈现出需求结构的显著转变。作为贵金属首饰领域的核心品类，黄金首饰不仅在珠宝首饰产业中占据着举足轻重的地位及销售份额，更是企业重要的利润增长点。目前，融合中国传统文化元素和美学意蕴的黄金首饰深受当今消费群体的喜爱和追捧。然而在黄金原材料价格持续波动的影响下，中国黄金首饰产业正迎来了新的挑战和变革机遇。本研究通过文献查阅、市场调研及案例分析等分析手段，以时间轴为顺序梳理了我国黄金首饰从夏商周至当代的发展历程及其工艺技术演变，归纳了不同历史阶段工艺技法特征，探讨了当前黄金首饰消费市场的转型与变化。同时，针对目前我国黄金首饰行业发展所遇到的瓶颈，从文化自信、人工智能生成内容(AIGC)技术辅助以及品牌化运营的角度，提出了黄金首饰发展的价值赋能路径，为行业的可持续发展提供新的思路与参考。
Abstract:With the rapid development of China's social economy, the jewelry consumption market has undergone a notable transformation in its demand structure. As a key category within the precious metal jewelry sector, gold jewelry occupies a central position and accounts for a significant sales share in the jewelry industry. Moreover, it represents an essential growth point for corporate profitability. Currently, gold jewelry that integrates traditional cultural elements and aesthetic connotations is highly favored by contemporary consumers. Nevertheless, due to the continuous fluctuation of gold raw material prices, the gold jewelry industry is confronted with novel challenges and development opportunities. In this study, the authors use research approaches including literature review, market analysis, and case studies, to chronologically sort the developmental trajectory and technological evolution of gold jewelry in China from the Xia, Shang, Zhou dynasties to the present era.It summarizes the craftsmanship characteristics of various historical periods, and investigates the shifts in the current gold jewelry consumption market.Meanwhile, in response to the bottlenecks encountered in the progress of China's gold jewelry industry, this article proposes a value enhancement pathway for its development, emphasizing the cultural confidence, artificial intelligence generated content (AIGC) technology assistance, and brand operation. These insights aim to provide innovative ideas and references for the sustainable development of the industry.
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图 1 宋代凤凰牡丹纹金霞帔坠
注：图片来源于首都博物馆网站
Figure 1. Phoenix-peony motif gold ceremonial pendant from the Song Dynasty
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图 2 明代嵌宝石葵花形金簪
注：图片来源于首都博物馆网站
Figure 2. Gem-inlaid gold hairpin in sunflower shape from the Ming Dynasty
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图 3 信达祥珠宝品牌的5G黄金“怦然心动”系列首饰
注：图片来源于信达祥珠宝品牌公司网站
Figure 3. The 5G gold jewelry series of jewelry brand Xindaxiang
表 1 中国古代黄金首饰常见的制作工艺
Table 1 Common crafting techniques of Chinese ancient gold jewelry
工艺名称 工艺描述 锤揲工艺 基于黄金的高延展性，通过锤击实现黄金片材的塑性形变，再按设计要求加工成各种器形和首饰 錾花工艺 运用不同形制的錾具对金属表面进行进行装饰，使其表面形成浮雕纹样和镂空图案 花丝工艺 又称为累丝工艺、细金工艺等，将金银材料制成细丝后，运用掐、填、攒、焊、堆、垒、织、编等技法对其进行塑形, “花丝”和“镶嵌”技艺结合时称为花丝镶嵌工艺 金珠粒工艺 将不同粒径的金珠焊结在金属器物表面形成装饰图案, 金珠成型根据所借助工具差异分有不同的制作方法 金银错工艺 通过器物表面开槽并嵌入金银线材或片材，形成由不同颜色金属构成的图案，是一种常见于青铜器表面的装饰工艺 鎏金工艺 通过研磨黄金和水银的混合物，将其涂刷于银/铜等基材表面，再经烘烤使水银挥发，最终使黄金附着在基层表面，获得黄金装饰效果，是一种金属表面的装饰工艺 
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表 2 中国部分黄金首饰品牌的纹样设计及其寓意
Table 2 Symbolic motifs and their cultural significances in some of the Chinese gold jewelry brands
品牌 系列 纹样 寓意 周大福 “花月佳期”“千金嫁妆”系列 牡丹纹 富贵吉祥, 繁荣昌盛, 和谐圆满 老铺黄金 六字真言足金项链 六字真言 净化心灵，积累功德，消除业障，平静和谐 古钱纹平安扣吊坠 钱币纹 招财进宝, 吉祥如意, 连年有余 六福珠宝 “福禄莲莲”足金项链 福字、莲花纹 吉祥幸福, 富贵安康, 多子多福, 和谐美满, 步步高升, 清净心灵 老凤祥 竹节足金项链 竹纹 高洁坚韧, 节节高升, 清廉正直, 和谐稳定 谢瑞麟 “金绣传艺·福绣锦鲤”系列 锦鲤纹 吉祥如意, 繁荣昌盛, 驱邪避灾, 和谐美满 周大生 “福禄绵绵”古法金项链 源自故宫博物院馆藏文物“各种釉彩大瓶”葫芦造型及缠枝纹 福禄吉祥, 健康长寿, 生生不息, 富贵荣华 中国黄金 “和合环”系列 以故宫博物院馆藏宋代青玉谷纹勾带纹环为原型，环饰谷丁纹，两环相扣 和和美美, 和谐如意
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