Abstract:
The gold-plated silver gemstone-inlaid flowerpot-shaped hairpin belongs to a kind of hairpin decoration mounted on the top of Dian Zi (a kind of hat). It is from the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty, and is part of the Palace Museum's collection. The inscriptions on its back "Ju Zhen" and "Er Liang Ping" indicate that this artifact was crafted by the civilian jewelry workshop "Juzhenzhai" with the weight standard following the commonly used civilian measure of "Er Liang Ping". This artifact exemplifies the fine metalworking techniques of the Qing imperial court, demonstrating a sophisticated approach to the hierarchy of design, gradation of colour, and material combination. Prior to restoration, the hairpin exhibited various issues, including surface grime, metal corrosion, gemstone detachment, and loosened or missing kingfisher feather inlays. The authors used analysis techniques such as microscopic observation, Raman spectroscopy, infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (Py-GC/MS) to conduct analysis and testing. Gemstones and adhesives used in the inlay of the hairpin were tested, thereby determining the restoration methods and adhesive selection for different materials. The main gemstone setting materials are pearls, spinels and tourmalines. The gemstone binder is mainly composed of a mixture of beewax and pine resin. In order to complement the pink gemstone material, cinnabar is also added as a toner. The authors used corresponding restoration techniques according to different damage conditions and carried out the steps of dust removal, kingfisher feather adhesion and gem adhesion, offering practical experience for the conservation of similar artifacts.