Application of Gold Bead Craft in Jewelry Design
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摘要: 金珠粒工艺是一种传统的金属工艺技法，广泛应用于金银器与首饰饰品的设计中，但文献对于此项工艺的制作流程记载较少，古法技艺几近失传，仅有少数当代首饰创作者通过个人实践探索将这种独特的艺术语言赋予了新的生命。这一传统工艺中制珠机理的研究，对当代工业化首饰工艺创新与发展具有重要意义。笔者对传统金珠粒工艺的审美特征进行深入研究，其特征表现为工艺美、秩序美以及肌理美。通过分析金珠粒工艺的发展现状以及在现代首饰设计中的传承与应用，旨在继承和发扬传统工艺，推动现代首饰的多元化发展。Abstract: The gold bead craft is a traditional metal craft, which is widely used in the design of gold and silverware and jewelry. However, the historical literature on this craft is almost lost. Only a few contemporary jewelers tried to give this unique artistic language a new life through personal practice. The research on the mechanism of this traditional craft of making beads is a great significance to the contemporary industrial jewelry process. In this paper, the author conducts a study on the aesthetic characteristics of traditional gold beads. By analyzing the development status of the gold bead craft and the inheritance and application in modern jewelry design, the author aims to inherit and carry forward the traditional craft and promote diversified modern jewelry development.
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Keywords:
- gold bead /
- crafts manship /
- modern jewelry
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图 1 出自伊特拉斯坎(意大利)，被大英博物馆收藏的最古老的金珠粒首饰[6]
Figure 1. The oldest gold bead jewelry from Italy, collected by British Museum
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图 5 英国维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆收藏的黄金手链及其细节(卡斯特拉尼约1875年制作)[12]
Figure 5. Bracelet collected by Victoria and Albert Museum of England(Castellani made in 1875)
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图 6 现藏于罗马国立伊特鲁里亚博物馆的卡斯特拉尼《阿喀琉斯》吊坠细节[12]
Figure 6. Pendant "Achilles" made by Castellani, collected by National Etruscan Museum in Rome
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图 7 美国首饰艺术家哈罗德·奥孔努尔设计制作的胸针[1]
Figure 7. Brooch made by American artist Harold O'Connorl
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图 8 台湾艺术大学赵丹绮设计制作的胸针[14]
Figure 8. Brooch made by Zhao Danqi from National Taiwan University of Arts
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