A Design Study of the "Fushou Sanduo" Pattern and Its Craftsmanship: The Case of Beadwork Hairpin with Melon and Fruit Motifs

The "Fushou Sanduo" pattern is a traditional Chinese auspicious motif composed of pomegranate, peach, and bergamot, symbolizing the blessings of progeny, longevity, and fortune, respectively in Chinese auspicious art. Its formal composition is characterized by three typical paradigms: (1)the three motifs are interconnected with entwining branches; (2)the three motifs are conjoined at the base or stem; (3)the three motifs are independently distributed on the same object. This study focused on a set of beadwork hairpins with melon and fruit motifs (currently comprising a peach hairpin and a bergamot hairpin) repatriated from the United Kingdom. Based on the canonical composition of the "Fushou Sanduo" pattern, it is deduced that the original set must have included a pomegranate hairpin. The form, materials, colour, and craftsmanship of the existing hairpins were analyzed from a design studies perspective, and a simulative replica of the missing pomegranate hairpin was designed and fabricated using seed pearl embroidery, imitation kingfisher feather inlay, and filigree techniques, along with materials including plastic beads, pearls, and dyed goose feathers. Furthermore, this study explored the potential of adapting and applying the "Fushou Sanduo" pattern, seed pearl embroidery, and kingfisher feather inlay techniques in contemporary jewelry design, which may contribute to the development of innovative interdisciplinary methodology for archaelogy and traditional craft.