堆盈的时尚:明代嘉靖、万历时期珠宝风格分析

Fashion with Abundant Gems and Pearls: Analysis of the Style of Jewelry in Jiajing and Wanli Periods of Ming Dynasty

  • 摘要: 明代嘉靖、万历时期,世风竞奢,在社会上层阶级的引领下逐渐形成了拼力镶嵌珠宝的设计风格,大量镶嵌宝石令明代中后期的首饰风貌发生改变,形成了堆盈的时尚。从材料、配色、装饰三个角度分析这了一时期的珠宝风格,讨论了宝石大量采买与满密镶嵌,分析了颜色上的撞色搭配以及首饰的世俗化题材和程式化构图。通过对该时期珠宝风格分析研究,以期为明代珠宝首饰的风格面貌提供些许新的认识和参考。

     

    Abstract: In the Jiajing and Wanli periods of Ming Dynasty, the society has formed an atmosphere of comparison and luxury. Under the trend lead by the upper class at that time, the intensive inlaying of gems changed the style of jewelry in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, and the design style of jewelry inlaid with plenty of gems was gradually formed and emerged a new fashion. This paper analyzed the jewelry style at that periods from the perspectives of material, colour matching and pattern. It discussed the large-scale purchase and full set inlay of gems, analyzed the colour matching of the gems, the secular themes and the stylized composition in jewelry design at that period. Through this study, the author hopes to provide some new understandings and references for the jewelry style of Ming Dynasty.

     

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