从欧洲珠宝首饰风格流变看希腊首饰文化的传承与发展——基于对广东省博物馆希腊珠宝首饰文化展样品的观察

Inheritance and Development of Greek Jewelry Culture from the Perspective of Evolution of European Jewelry Style: Based on the Observation of the Jewelry of Greek Jewelry Culture Exhibition in Guangdong Museum

  • 摘要: 希腊首饰文化是古希腊文明的缩影,深刻影响着欧洲珠宝首饰的风貌,而多元化发展的欧洲珠宝首饰同样也影响着希腊首饰文化的传承与发展。通过参与广东省博物馆及希腊共和国文化和体育部文物和文化遗产总局基克拉泽斯群岛文物长官团主办的“瞻彼星辰——希腊珠宝首饰文化展”277件(组)样品的整理、观察,总结了希腊首饰文化在新石器时代-青铜时期,古风-古典时期及希腊化时代-古罗马时期三个重要阶段的发展历程及特征, 并通过对欧洲珠宝首饰从中世纪到文艺复兴时期再到20世纪新艺术运动、装饰艺术运动、后现代主义运动等时期珠宝首饰风格流变的分析比较,以现代欧洲珠宝首饰奢侈品品牌中希腊神话元素、自然元素的运用为例,回溯希腊首饰文化对欧洲珠宝首饰风格的影响。通过对社会变革、工业及经济发展、信息技术革命等因素对欧洲珠宝首饰风格影响的分析,进一步讨论了多元化发展的欧洲珠宝首饰风格对希腊首饰文化发展流变的影响。珠宝首饰是社会意识形态的载体,通过欧洲珠宝首饰风格的流变及其与希腊首饰文化传承发展的认识,进一步了解首饰产业的发展与政治、经济、文化之间的联系,以史为镜,为中国珠宝首饰产业的发展提供借鉴。

     

    Abstract: Greek jewelry culture is the epitome of ancient Greek civilization, which deeply affects the aesthetics of European jewelry. The diversified development of European jewelry also plays an important role in the inheritance and development of Greek jewelry culture. This paper summarizes the development and characteristics of the Greek jewelry culture in three important stages, the Neolithic Age to the Bronze Age, the Archaic to the Classical Period, and the Age of Hellenistic to the Ancient Roman Period with 277 pieces (groups) of samples by participating in the "Vanity-Stories of Jewelry in the Cyclades" exhibition sponsored by the Guangdong Museum and the Ministry of Culture and Sports of Greece. This paper also analyzes and compares the styles of European jewelry from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance to the 20th century Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Postmodernism, etc.Using the Greek mythology elements and natural elements in modern European luxury jewelry brands as examples, this paper tracks the impact of Greek jewelry culture on European jewelry style. By the analysis of the influence of social change, industrial and economic development, information technology revolution and other factors on European jewelry style, the influence of diversified European jewelry style on the development of Greek jewelry culture are further discussed. Jewelry is in some way the indicator of social ideology, this paper expects to further understand the relationships between politics, economy and culture with the jewelry industry and proposes to seek new ideas for the development of Chinese jewelry industry.

     

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